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Sash Windows

Restoration, Upgrades and Replacement Options for Your Wooden Sash Windows

Original wooden sash windows are a timeless architectural feature that add elegance and charm to any home. However, as they age, they can become a source of drafts, energy inefficiency, and maintenance challenges. Whether you’re looking to preserve their original character or upgrade to modern functionality, here are some practical options to restore, improve, or replace them.

1. Draft Proofing

If your sash windows are letting in cold air, draft proofing is an effective and cost-efficient solution.

2. Redecoration

Over time, sash windows may show signs of wear, peeling paint, or discoloration. Regular maintenance can restore their aesthetic appeal.

3. Replacing the Sashes

If the frames are in good condition but the sashes (the moving parts) are damaged or outdated, replacing them might be the right choice.

4. Complete Replacement

When the windows are beyond repair or no longer meet your needs, replacing them entirely can be the best option.

Making Your Decision

Choosing the best option depends on your priorities:

Choosing a supplier

If you are looking for complete replacement, we always recommend you consider the following:

Final Thoughts

Your sash windows are a valuable part of your home’s heritage. Whether you choose to draft-proof, redecorate, replace the sashes, or go for a complete replacement, there’s a solution to suit your needs. Consult a specialist if you’re unsure, and enjoy the blend of beauty and functionality your sash windows bring to your home.

How to Prepare Your Single-Glazed Sash Windows for Winter

As temperatures start to drop, it’s a great time to ensure your single-glazed sash windows are ready to keep the warmth in and the cold out. These classic windows add charm to a home but often need a bit of preparation to provide effective insulation through winter. Here’s a simple guide to winter-proof your sash windows without compromising their beauty.

1. Check for Drafts and Gaps

Sash windows, particularly older ones, often develop gaps around the edges over time. Drafts can be a major source of heat loss, which leads to higher heating bills and a colder home. Here’s how to address this:

2. Repair or Replace Putty

Putty is used to secure and seal the glass panes in sash windows. Over time, it can dry out and crack, leading to drafts and rattling.

3. Consider Secondary Glazing or Film

If your sash windows are single-glazed, they’re not as energy-efficient as modern double glazing. To improve insulation, consider adding secondary glazing or a window insulation film.

4. Maintain Locks and Cords

Ensure your sash windows are secure and function smoothly, as this helps them close tightly and prevents drafts.

5. Use Heavy Curtains or Blinds

In addition to insulating your windows, thick curtains or thermal blinds add another layer of insulation to keep cold drafts at bay.

6. Keep Windows Clean and Free of Debris

Dirt, dust, and grime can prevent a tight seal when closing sash windows, so be sure to keep them clean.

7. Consider Professional Help if Needed

If you’re unsure about DIY methods or your windows need significant repairs, consider consulting a professional. They can assess your windows and recommend effective repairs.

Final Thoughts

Preparing your single-glazed sash windows for winter doesn’t have to be a huge task. With a bit of time and attention to detail, you can improve their efficiency, reduce drafts, and keep your home cozy through the cold months.

If you would like to upgrade your timber sash windows to double-glazed because your existing windows just aren’t doing the job any more, or if they are beyond economical repair, Woodland of Kingston will be happy to help when it’s time to replace them.

Building Regulations, trickle vents, and what it means for replacement timber windows and doors.

We are going to look at changes to the Building Regulations, trickle vents, and what it means for replacement timber windows and doors, particularly timber windows and doors fitted in period homes.

What are the changes to the Building Regulations?

This blog relates to Approved Document F: Volume 1: Ventilation in Dwellings. It came into effect in June 2022. All work started after this date must comply with the revised regulations. The full document can be viewed and downloaded here.

Approved Document F (ADF) deals with various aspects of ventilation in buildings, but for the purposes of this article we are only looking at the two types of ventilation relating to windows: Purge ventilation and Background ventilation.

Purge ventilation – This is achieved by opening a window and door and is used to rid a room of a build-up of pollutants or water vapour, or to help with temperature control in hot weather.
ADF states that most replacement windows need to have an openable area at least 1/20th of the total floor area of the room. This is a fairly simple calculation and does not usually affect the look of the new window or door being installed, so we will leave purge ventilation there.

Background ventilation – This describes the ability of a property to “breath” and maintain good air quality inside the building. This is important for the health of occupants and also helps prevent the build-up of condensation and mould.

The changes to the Building Regulations essentially mean that most new window and door installations will require the inclusion of trickle ventilation. Trickle vents will usually be required in kitchens, toilets, bathrooms and all habitable rooms. They are not required in hallways and landings. Two-stage locking mechanisms, such as night-vents and adjustable sash locks, are no longer considered acceptable means of background ventilation.

How do these changes affect you?

Now we come to the important bit. You are looking for new timber windows and doors and, in all likelihood you live in a period home and want to retain its original character. Fitting trickle vents in your beautiful new timber windows and doors really goes against the grain here, right?

Well, yes, and no. There is no escaping the need to comply with the Building Regulations, but there are things that can be done to ensure the character of your home is retained as far as possible.

So, let’s work through some scenarios and see what options are available:

Do you really need trickle vents?

Let’s look in more detail and define when trickle vents are and are NOT required. As mentioned above, trickle vents MUST be installed:

But, there are exceptions:

On elevations facing busy roads. There is no definition in the Building Regulations as to what constitutes a busy road, but, unfortunately, FENSA have taken a rather extreme interpretation of a busy road as being:

When a Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery system (MVHR) is installed.

In Conservation areas

In listed buildings

If you can prove your home already meets the requirements of the Building regulations

Air bricks

What are your options then?

In most cases, unless you can satisfy one of the exceptions above, you will have to fit a trickle vent in your new timber windows and doors.

Whilst we at Woodland have tried to resist fitting vents for as long as we can, it is no longer realistically possible. We have therefore done whatever we can to incorporate trickle vents that will meet the requirements of the Building Regulations whilst remaining as discrete as possible.

These examples incorporate trickle vents, and, as you can see, the original character of the windows is retained, to a large degree.

Our position on trickle vents is that they are a necessary evil. Unfortunately, we have all seen in the news the devastating effects on health that poor ventilation and mould growth can have, particularly on the young. That said, it seems non-sensical that we are being told to install windows and doors with ever lower U-values (i.e. offering better insulation) and then being told we have to put a hole in them because the building has been sealed so well. In some ways, modern insulation is a victim of its own effectiveness. Probably the most effective solution, both in terms of aesthetics and outcome on air quality, is to fit a MVHR such as the Fluxo, but this comes at a cost. We will be happy to discuss this in more detail with you if you wish, just get in touch.

trickle vents for bespoke timber sash window

Do I need to replace my existing sash windows or can I repair them?

If you have original sash windows, they’ve probably been in place around 100 years and in many cases, they’re still working just fine. They’ll continue to do so as long as you check them regularly and deal with any problems as soon as you spot them. You can download our quick and easy Annual sash window check to help you stay on top of any maintenance issues and save you money in the long run.

With replacement timber sash windows you can keep the beautiful look but also benefit from modern features such as acoustic glass, glazing and weather seals.

But if you’re happy with your windows, we won’t suggest you replace them if they can be fixed. We don’t repair sash windows but we’ve compiled a list of the most common problems and what you need to do. If you’re local to us and want a recommendation for someone to fix your windows, get in touch.

Problem

Your options

 

Rot

Rotting timber / Rotting staff bead / Rotten sill / Rotting bottom rail (bottom sash) /  Rotting meeting rail (top sash) Over time your timber might start to rot. Depending on the extent of the damage it should be filled and made good. If that won’t address the issue, splice in new timber to replace the rotten section. In some instances, you’ll need to replace the section of frame.
Rotting sill We absolutely do not endorse the replacement of a sill. If the sill is replaced the but the window frame is rotten, you are storing up problems for the future. Depending on the extent of any rot we would advise replacement of the window in its entirety. We’d also suggest a trusted expert to carry out the work.
 

Flaking

Flaking pointing Hack out existing cement pointing bead and replace.
Flaking putty Hack out putty and re-putty, then decorate
Flaking paint A decorator will sand back or remove the oil based paint, fill any cracks, prepare the timber and redecorate
 

Condensation and mould

Condensation on inside of glass (single glazed window) Start by ventilating the room. If this doesn’t fix it, consider replacing the sashes or re-glazing existing sashes with double-glazing (if possible)
Black mould on inside of woodwork, especially around the glass This is caused by condensation. Ensure the window is ventilated and don’t leave curtains /blinds closed in front of window during the day.  Clean off with mould-remover.
 

Sash issues

Broken sash cord Re-cord the existing sashes
Rattling sash(es) Adjust staff bead (bottom sash)

Fit weather seals (top or bottom sash)

Sash weights catching Is something screwed into the box, such as plantation shutters? You need to remove any obstructions. You might need to remove the sash pocket to see better.
Sash weights knocking /rattling when window is opened or closed The wag-tail may have moved (or wasn’t fitted) so the weights can knock. Or, as above, an obstruction in the box may be causing the weights to catch.
Sashes not lining up /closing easily The solution depends on the cause. Start by removing any paint or dirt build-up on sill under bottom rail. Ensure sashes are square and plane them if necessary. If needed, replace hardware or pack out hardware if mid-rail is bowed or move the catches.
Damp patch under window This is probably caused by water coming in through failed pointing, between a poorly sealed bottom sash and sill, or down the inside face of box lining. Get an expert to look at the damage to see if it can be repaired but you will probably need a replacement window.
Cracks in joints externally This is usually caused by old oil-based paint that has hardened. A decorator will sand back, fill, prepare and redecorate the timber.

What to think about when replacing sash windows

When looking into replacing timber sash windows, there are a few things to consider: not only the condition of the existing windows and their structural integrity but also the quality and finish of the replacement:

Frame thickness: When you change to double glazed windows you’ll have to increase the sash size to accommodate them and the box frame as well. This means pushing the window out closer to the outer brickwork and may have it protrude into the room. Find out how your provider will manage this so you’ll know how it will look and consider using the thinnest possible frame depth it is possible to minimise the visible difference.

Meeting rail thickness: The meeting rail is the horizontal section running effective across the top and bottom of the sash. This hides the rebate for the frame. With double glazing this will need to be big enough to ensure the glazing is properly finished. The sash with double glazing will be twice the weight – you won’t notice it as it’s counterbalanced – but it means the timber of the top meeting rail must be thick enough to take the weight of the window. 

Glazing bars: You have a couple of choices. Through or True bars work like the original bars separating the window into smaller panes. But because they must be bigger to accommodate the double glazing they don’t necessarily look authentic. Applied bars are bonded to the inner and outer panes of the glass. This means that there is one pane of glass per sash. The result is a slender bar that is less traditional than a Through bar but looks more like the original.  

Glass: The final look will be impacted by the reflectivity, tint and distortion of the glass. 

Consider Low Iron glass which is clearer and not considerably more expensive.

If you really want an authentic look, you might be tempted to consider Cylinder glass (it’s made as a glass cylinder then flattened). However it’s costly to make and it is brittle and prone to breaking. An alternative is Machine-drawn glass which still as an authentic feel and is available in larger sizes than Cylinder glass. It can also be toughened or laminated to make it stronger. Woodland use Goethe 3mm and 4.5mm machine drawn glass. 

Sash horns or joggles are a decorative feature of a sash window. Most companies who make their own range of sash windows will be able to replicate those on your windows. If they have to create a template for a unique design you can expect to pay more but check local companies as they will be used to matching designs found in local homes and may already have a record of your sash horn profile. The bigger companies tend to offer a standard range which may work out cheaper but won’t match your original sashes. As a guide, Woodland charges about £50 -£100 per sash for a bespoke horn profile.

Paint finish: Most original sash windows are finished in oil-based paint which builds up over repeated coats and which often conceals some of the original detailing. Most replacement sash windows will be finished in a water-based paint system which is less glossy, more environmentally friendly and allows the timber to breath. 

Fretwork and other bespoke detailing: Any original features can be reproduced – it’s really a matter of budget. As with sash horns, a larger company will offer you a limited range of options for lower cost. If you want to reproduce the unique detailing on your windows, try a local company with the technology in house and as they’re local, it’s worth going and seeing examples of their work.

Can I afford new timber sash windows?

Your windows have to work hard. They will make a huge difference to the look and appeal of your property; they’ll keep your home warm and cut your fuel bills and they’ll also insulate you from outside noise. Replacing your windows can be costly so you only want to do it once. Quotes can vary company to company so knowing exactly what you’re getting will ensure you use your budget effectively.  

Do some local research

There’s a lot of competition but it’s worth including a local company when you’re getting quotes. The advantage is that you can go and see their work and really work out what matters to you. It’s especially worth looking at windows they installed a few years ago so you can see how they’ve weathered. If they have a local factory, take a visit. A local factory can put problems right. A company that ships the windows in isn’t nearly so flexible.  

What timber is best?

Wood is a beautiful material for windows, it’s durable and easy to maintain. But not all timber is the same so make sure you understand the pros and cons of what you’re buying. As a brief overview:

What’s included in the cost?

If your quotes vary more than 10% it’s possible that they’re not exact like-for-like quotes. Here are a few important things to check:

We don’t work on a commission structure but many companies do – ideally you want your money to be spent on your windows not sales commissions.

As a quick guide, check the company is a member of a trade scheme such as FENSA, the British Woodworking Federation. Also check Checkatrade, Which? Or Trusted Traders.

Ladybirds around my window frame

We usually receive a few calls about this time each year asking about ladybirds hiding around the frames of people’s windows. Are they safe? How can they be destroyed? How can they be prevented from coming back?

Before you think of destroying them – stop!

Ladybirds are an important part of the garden food chain. They are a natural insecticide and feed on all those creepy crawlies that devour your plants. Why would you want to kill them?

Ladybirds need somewhere to over-winter, so they will try and find a dark, sheltered spot to lie dormant during the colder months. This could be under a log, behind a shed, or in the gap between a casement and a window frame. Many species like to clump together in groups, so you could find tens of ladybirds in a single huddle in a dark corner. Nobody knows quite why they do this, but it is probably a way of protecting themselves.

If you have older windows you might find some of the insects get into you house and this can be a concern for some people. Modern windows should have good weather seals around the perimeter so this will ensure the ladybirds can’t get all the way inside your home.

If you find you have ladybirds around your window frames, all you need to do is carefully scrape them into a jam jar using a soft brush, and find a suitable, sheltered spot for them to hide out in the garden. Pop them somewhere safe and they will take care of themselves, and come spring they will thank you for it by eating all the aphids!

If you are lucky enough to have a good sized garden and want to go one step further, consider devoting a little patch to wilder plants like nettles, under the leaves of which ladybirds like to lay their eggs. You can also plant some wild flowers which will help attract other useful insect like bees.

Insects are in sharp decline in the UK and they need all the help they can get.

One exception to the above is the Harlequin ladybird. This is an invasive species not indigenous to the UK, and threatens many of the other 45 species we have living in this country. The UK ladybird survey is mapping the spread of the Harlequin ladybird. Find out more, including how to identify the Harlequin ladybird and take part in the survey at http://www.ladybird-survey.org/.

Alternatively, if you have drafty old windows that let in all sorts of creepy crawlees, why not get in touch and see how Woodland can help you?

How much do replacement wood sash windows cost?

Okay, full disclosure here, if you’ve just landed on this page straight from a search engine after googling “How much do replacement timber sash windows cost?”, you’ve landed on the blog of a company who makes and installs wood sash windows! It’s in our interests to sell you our sash windows, to extol the virtues of traditional wooden windows, of maintaining the period features of your beautiful Victorian home, of all the wonderful benefits of wooden windows etc. etc.

And while we firmly believe you should indeed be buying timber box sash windows, and definitely from Woodland of Kingston (that’s us by the way!), we know there are more companies than ever in the timber sash window market, and it can be really difficult for a potential customer to cut through all the rubbish and find a company that is going to provide what they want at a good quality and a sensible price.

So, on that basis we will try and be as impartial as possible and answer the question; “how much should you be paying for new wooden sash windows?”, and hopefully you can believe that what is written is meant in good faith, to help educate, and to help you make a better buying decision.

Enough rambling. More windowing!

So how much should you pay for a new timber sash window? The answer of course is never going to be that straight forward (sorry!). There are so many variables to consider that if we were to write them all here there would be enough info to fill a book, let alone a blog, and there’s a fair chance you wouldn’t be awake by the end of it!

So, how much should you be paying for your new timber sash windows? The short answer is anywhere from around £900 to £5,000+. But, that doesn’t really give you any meaningful information and is just a broad spectrum of cost.

It really depends on which company you choose, what materials they use, the scope of service they offer, and what you ask them to quote for. All we can say is; do your research! Ask questions, dig around. Of course, that’s what you are already doing, so there’s a good start. After all, why else would you be reading this?!

With that in mind, here are a few things you could bear in mind when obtaining your quotes;

Where are the timber windows being made?

If they are being made locally, great; you get piece of mind that if anything goes wrong you will have more chance of getting it put right than if the windows are being shipped in from abroad. You also get the benefit of supporting a local business 😉

What materials are being used?

Wood is good! Treated softwood is okay for low-cost, do-for-now windows (which really isn’t the kind of purchase you want to be making, let’s be honest), hardwood is better, but can have movement issues, and it’s good to check its sustainability, Accoya is best; it’s extremely durable, very low maintenance and not prone to movement, but it is expensive.

We’ve written another posts about “How to choose the right timber for your timber windows and doors?

What are you getting for your money?

What are you actually getting for your money?

Check what is written on the quote. Are you getting what you were expecting? Some companies prefer to replace the window in its entirety, others will like to quote to fit new timber sashes into the existing frames. When comparing quotes, make sure you are comparing on a like for like basis.

We could go on and on, but you get the idea. There is potentially a huge variation in quality of material, service, product etc. and this will undoubtedly reflect in the price. As a rule of thumb, the quotes you receive will usually be of a similar value within a factor of 10% to 20% max. If a quote is significantly outside the range of the other quotes you get (and we are assuming you are a diligent consumer who is seeking at least three quotes), the chances are the surveyor misunderstood your needs or has quoted for something other than what everyone else has quoted.

If one quote is significantly lower than the rest, be double sure to have good answers to all the points above. Timber, labour, rent etc. all costs much of a muchness. Some companies will cut corners and use inferior materials, and as a result their sash windows will cost less. Other companies use cheap labour by buying from abroad, so their windows may cost a little less too, although this is not always the case. Others will spend extra time ensuring their quality is as good as can be, and will not want to skimp on quality of materials. These quotes will obviously end up being higher than those at the cheaper end (no need to point out which end of this spectrum Woodland like to aim for!)

So, after all this is taken into account, how much are your new wooden sash windows going to cost?

You can search online now and order a standard window on spiral balances from an online wooden window company for £750-£1000, maybe even less. You could pay for the same sized window to be supplied by a specialist in traditional sash windows for £1000 – £1,500. If you wanted to include installation, with new architraves, window board, cement pointing outside etc., you could be paying anywhere from £1,500 – £2,000+.

Hopefully this is all helpful information, if a little long-winded, and it’s a shame there isn’t a straight forward answer. If you want to find out more about Woodland of Kingston’s range of timber windows, or would like to take a look around our sash window workshop, we will always be happy to help, just pick up the phone and give us a call on 020 8547 2171, or email us.