For orders we are installing, the process is as follows:
For orders we are supplying, for installation by others, the process is as follows:
Feel free to contact us by email or telephone, or by completing a contact form (link).
We are happy to provide a quotation from photos, measurements, or drawings you provide, or if your project requires, we can arrange for one of our experienced surveying team to visit in person. If you would like to send us photos and measurements, find out more by reading our remote survey guide here (link)
Our lead time varies depending on the scope of works, type and size of order and time of year. It is best to contact us to confirm our current lead time.
If you are working to a schedule, for example if you are undertaking building works, it is best to arrange items like windows and doors as early as possible in the build as the lead time can often be quite long and could hold things up if you delay ordering.
The length of your installation really depends on the size of project. The following is an approximate guide showing how long we expect some common installations to take:
| Sash window | 1 day |
| Box sash bay window | 2.5 days |
| Casement window | 1 – 2 days depending on size |
| Casement bay window | 2-3 days depending on size |
| French doors | 1-2 days |
| Bifold doors | 1 – 2 days |
| Sliding doors | 1 – 2 days |
| Front entrance door | 1 – 2 days |
| Single door | 1 day |
| Roof lantern | 3 – 4 days |
The length of time an installation will take is influenced by:
If you have original sash windows, they’ve probably been in place around 100 years and in many cases, they’re still working just fine. They’ll continue to do so as long as you check them regularly and deal with any problems as soon as you spot them. You can download our quick and easy Annual sash window check to help you stay on top of any maintenance issues and save you money in the long run.
Some people replace their sash windows so they can keep the beautiful look but also benefit from modern features such as acoustic glass, glazing and weather seals.
But if you’re happy with your windows, we won’t suggest you replace them if they can be fixed. We don’t repair sash windows but we’ve compiled a list of the most common problems and what you need to do. If you’re local to us and want a recommendation for someone to fix your windows, get in touch.
Condensation and mould
Problem |
Your options |
|
Rot |
|
| Rotting timber / Rotting staff bead / Rotten sill / Rotting bottom rail (bottom sash) / Rotting meeting rail (top sash) | Over time your timber might start to rot. Depending on the extent of the damage it should be filled and made good. If that won’t address the issue, splice in new timber to replace the rotten section. In some instances, you’ll need to replace the section of frame. |
| Rotting sill | We absolutely do not endorse the replacement of a sill. If the sill is replaced the but the window frame is rotten, you are storing up problems for the future. Depending on the extent of any rot we would advise replacement of the window in its entirety. We’d also suggest a trusted expert to carry out the work. |
|
Flaking |
|
| Flaking pointing | Hack out existing cement pointing bead and replace. |
| Flaking putty | Hack out putty and re-putty, then decorate |
| Flaking paint | A decorator will sand back or remove the oil based paint, fill any cracks, prepare the timber and redecorate |
| Condensation on inside of glass (single glazed window) | Start by ventilating the room. If this doesn’t fix it, consider replacing the sashes or re-glazing existing sashes with double-glazing (if possible) |
| Black mould on inside of woodwork, especially around the glass | This is caused by condensation. Ensure the window is ventilated and don’t leave curtains /blinds closed in front of window during the day. Clean off with mould-remover. |
|
Sash issues |
|
| Broken sash cord | Re-cord the existing sashes |
| Rattling sash(es) | Adjust staff bead (bottom sash)
Fit weather seals (top or bottom sash) |
| Sash weights catching | Is something screwed into the box, such as plantation shutters? You need to remove any obstructions. You might need to remove the sash pocket to see better. |
| Sash weights knocking /rattling when window is opened or closed | The wag-tail may have moved (or wasn’t fitted) so the weights can knock. Or, as above, an obstruction in the box may be causing the weights to catch. |
| Sashes not lining up /closing easily | The solution depends on the cause. Start by removing any paint or dirt build-up on sill under bottom rail. Ensure sashes are square and plane them if necessary. If needed, replace hardware or pack out hardware if mid-rail is bowed or move the catches. |
| Damp patch under window | This is probably caused by water coming in through failed pointing, between a poorly sealed bottom sash and sill, or down the inside face of box lining. Get an expert to look at the damage to see if it can be repaired but you will probably need a replacement window. |
| Cracks in joints externally | This is usually caused by old oil-based paint that has hardened. A decorator will sand back, fill, prepare and redecorate the timber. |
You can replace your sash windows but how do you maximise the thermal and acoustic benefits of modern windows without compromising on that beautiful look of traditional sashes. These are the things you’ll need to consider.
Frame thickness: Double glazing requires the size of the frame to increase so it will push further out beyond the brick wall or further in to your room.
The window weight: This will increase with double glazing (you won’t notice as it’s counterbalanced) but it means the timber of the top meeting rail must be thick enough to take its weight.
Glazing bars: A Through or True bar separates each window into individual panes. This is the traditional way but because they must accommodate double glazing they won’t necessarily look authentic. Applied bars are bonded to the inner and outer panes of the glass. Although there is only one pane of glass per sash it can look more like the original.
Glass: The final look will be impacted by the reflectivity, tint and distortion of the glass.
Reflectivity – Single glazed windows appear less reflective than double glazed windows.
Tint – Modern glass tends to have a subtle tint thanks to solar control coatings.
Distortion – Original glass is imperfect giving a distorted view when you look through it.
Sash horns or joggles are a decorative feature of a sash window. Most companies who make their own range of sash windows will be able to replicate those on your windows.
Paint finish: Most replacement sash windows will be finished in a water-based paint system which is less glossy, more environmentally friendly and allows the timber to breath.
Fretwork and other bespoke detailing: Any original features can be reproduced – it’s really a matter of budget.
For more information on these choices read our blog What to think about when replacing sash windows.
We are proud that all our windows and doors are manufactured in-house at our factory in Kingston upon Thames. We even make our own double-glazed units here. This means we have complete control of quality; we are not reliant on third-party manufacturers, and we know exactly which materials are being used in the production process.
Because our windows and doors are manufactured in the UK, you can be confident that the lead time we give you will be accurate, as your order will not be held up in customs and we are not reliant on a foreign supplier to fulfil your order.
Want to see for yourself? Contact us to book a factory tour.
We use the highest quality timber, glass, paint and hardware in all our wooden windows and doors. The exact specifications will vary depending on the individual requirements of your project, and our experience allows us to match the best materials to meet your needs.
Here is a summary of the materials we use:
Timber – All timber we specify is FSC certified so you can be confident it is responsibly sourced from sustainable plantations. We use a variety of timbers including Accoya, Utile, Red Grandis, and Tulip. More information on the timber we use can be found here (link). When we prepare your quotation, the timber we have specified will be detailed for each item being quoted.
Paint – The paint we use is durable, environmentally friendly, water-based paint by Teknos. Teknos is a Finnish company specialising in the manufacture of paints for use in harsh exterior environments, so it is perfect for external joinery. Our paint is all applied in the factory to give the best finish. You can find out more about the paints we use, available finish options, and our painting process, here (link).
Glass – We offer a variety of glass types depending on your needs. As a minimum, every unit we manufacture is double-glazed with Planitherm Total+ thermal glass, Argon cavity and warm-edge spacer bar.
In addition, we offer a wide range of glass types including acoustic glass, heritage, obscured, decorative, solar control, safetyy glass and anti-bandit glass. We also supply slim-light units, Krypton-filled for conservation areas. On top of these, we also offer Vacuum double-glazed units by FINEO for the ultimate performance in a slim cavity. Find out more about Fineo here (link).
Read on for our full guide to the glass and glazing options available to you (link).
No, we do not offer uPVC or Aluminium. uPVC is not a sustainable or environmentally friendly material to use, and it is not generally in keeping with the traditional homes of the Victorian, Edwardian, and Georgian eras.
Aluminium is commonly available from a variety of different suppliers, and we very much stick to what we are best at, which is making and fitting the best wooden windows and doors.
We make a lovely front entrance door, finished to the same high quality as our other windows and doors. However, because a front door is a much more involved process, both in the design and manufacture, we only offer doors to customers for whom we are also carrying out other work or for whom we have previously worked.
How large is the bifold opening? Bifold doors are more suited to larger openings. The maximum size of an individual door leaf is 1200mm but there is no limit to the number of door leaves you may have.
An uneven number of doors: Bifold doors work best when the opening area is divided into uneven numbers of doors, for example you could have one door opening one way with three doors opening the other. Or you could have five doors all opening one way.
The lead door: If you have an even number of door leaves there is no lead door which can be opened independently. This means you’re sliding the entire bifold door open every time you go in or out of the garden.
Inwards or Outwards: Doors can be made as outward or inward opening and can be top hung or bottom running as necessary. Your doors will generally open outward but if there are steps or a narrow patio you might opt to open them inwards.
Weather sealing and drainage: Many customers want to achieve a flush profile between inside and outside. Whilst this is possible it is not always practical – ask us for advice on how to ensure your bifolds are weatherproof.
Contemporary v Traditional look: Bifold doors are usually thought of as a contemporary feature, but our experience with more traditional craftsmanship means we can create doors with the modern bifold action but with beautiful period features such as glazing bars and period panels. You can have all the advantages of modern bifolds but in keeping with your property.
Security and durability: All Woodland doors offer maximum security and so durable we guarantee them for ten years.
Warmth and insulation: We work with high performance thermal glass to ensure your bifolds let in the light but not the cold.
Our specialty is the manufacture and installation of new joinery, so we do not offer a redecoration service for windows that have not been installed by Woodland. However, we do like to help, and we would be happy give advice on the recommended maintenance of your windows, so feel free to get in touch if you need any guidance.
The U-value tells you how much heat a window will let through. The lower the U-value, the better the insulation. This helps you run a warm, comfortable and energy efficient home. It also reduces noise pollution from outside.
If you’re comparing different products, it’s worth checking that the whole of the window is included in the U-value. More heat will be lost around the edges, so you want to check the U-value of the whole window and not just the centre pane.
Building regulations for new builds or renovations require that windows should have a U-Value of no higher than 1.6 and doors should have a U-value of no higher than 1.8. This is a minimum requirement however and our glazing performs at a much higher level. Our typical glazing U-value is 1.2 and our typical overall sash window U-value is 1.4.
There’s a piece of Accoya™ timber sitting in a pot of water in our offices. It’s been there since 2015 and it’s still in excellent condition. That’s why we use it for our windows – we believe it’s the best timber available.
Accoya™ is extremely durable. It lasts decades and endures all weathers. And because it’s so durable, it’s easy to maintain, it just needs to be painted every few years. Accoya™ doesn’t shrink or move – once your frames are fitted, they’ll stay perfectly in place.
Over our forty-year history we’ve worked with various timbers and we know from experience that Accoya™ is the most reliable. That’s why we offer an extended guarantee on all the windows and doors we manufacture with it.
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Woodland of Kingston, St Peters House, 6 Cambridge Rd, Kingston upon Thames KT1 3JY
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